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Tony Milano's name on a pizzeria out in Las Vegas, say all that sun and desert, is weird. anyone who knows Tony can only picture his pizza oven glowing in the long shadows of the Paradise rd, with the patient lines of hungry business colleagues outside and a soft delivery policy"I'm retired now," explains Tony. "But franchised, maybe." So far there are just a precious few other Milano's out there and Tony says he insists on personally training this new generation to make pies the way his late uncle, Vinni Milano, taught him 20 years ago in New York - with the special dough recipe and only fresh ingredients , of course, but always in an oven built the old way from brick and fired the old way! Tony says, proud to be handing on his the oven approach produces far more heat (600 degrees plus) and thereby fierce-to-subtle hot spots of artistry to make the pie bubble, crisp and lightly char. "Far better flavor," Tony assures, particularly for those who had their first taste of pizza after World War II, when soldiers came home with tales of discovering it in Italy. Pizza has since become a ubiquitous industry in America with flavors running from rare ambrosia to mall-rat flannel. It inevitably created a connoisseur craving for the real deal, the sort of pie that perennially has Milano's rated among best pizza in Las Vegas . tony cautions. "These guys know nothing about pizza." Like thoroughbred racing bloodlines, pizza can be traced in this country to a pioneer master, Mario Milano, who opened the first shop offering the exotic, postpeasant bakery product a century ago in Manhattan's little Italy. He brought the recipe from Milan, where pizza was cooked in wood-fired ovens, and adapted it here , one of which still powers up worthy pies at an authentic version of Milano's. Tony honors this history down through Uncle Pit as he finally hands their arts on to the future.. And now it is on to Las Vegas, and only because the owner there required the secrets of the Milano's pie maker who knows . "So," says Tony, "you could say I'm now a - what is it called? - a professional. A pizza expert."